Welcome to the Whole House Audio information center! Whether you buy a full-blown surround sound system from us or a few HDMI cables, the staff here at Whole House Audio is here to help you design the system of your dreams. We live, eat and breath audio and can help you choose the right outdoor speakers, in-wall or ceiling speakers, surround sound set-up, TV mounts, or whatever A/V gadget you need to complete your dream theater or whole house audio system.
We designed this information section for your use because we believe that informed customers make the best purchasing decisions, and those customers come back. You can even send us your plans and we'll help you design your set-up! If you can't find what you're looking for here please call us at 888-779-4968.
HOW TO CHOOSE IN-WALL SPEAKERS
What Are the Benefits of In-wall Speakers?
In-wall speakers have become quite popular in homes, and it’s not uncommon to see them in hallways and home theaters big and small. People are discovering just how ingenious these speakers are and how far they’ve come since their humble beginnings. Advances in acoustic quality and ease of installation have made in-wall speakers competitive with traditional free-standing models. In addition to producing excellent sound quality, these speakers blend well within any interior and free up a lot of precious floor space.
Flush-mount In-wall speakers can be painted to match your décor, and the wiring is completely hidden from view. Bass response from in-walls is excellent because the speaker uses the wall or ceiling cavity as the speaker cabinet, and features like swiveling tweeters let you direct the high frequencies toward your ears. In-walls and in-ceiling speakers are also resilient, often lasting decades, and many models are moisture-resistant so you can install them in bathrooms, laundry rooms, and other moist areas. (Avoid installing in-ceiling speakers directly above a bath or shower stall.)
How In-wall Speakers Work: A Few Basics
An in-wall speaker works essentially the same way as a regular box cabinet speaker. Instead of being positioned inside a cabinet (box), however, these speakers are mounted in a frame and set into the wall. An in-ceiling speaker works essentially the same way. Generally, in-wall speakers tend to be rectangular while in-ceiling speakers tend to be round. All in-wall and in-ceiling speakers have paintable grilles.
Do Different Rooms Require Different Speakers?
One size fits all doesn’t really apply to in-wall speakers because different rooms tend to be used for different kinds of listening. In a family room or home theater, you’ll probably sit in a specific spot to hear music or the surround sound of a movie track at relatively high volumes. In this case, the biggest, best-sounding in-wall speakers you can afford, positioned at ear level when seated, will be your best bet.
A kitchen or dining room, on the other hand, is a place where you might want low-key sound distributed evenly throughout the space, so an array of in-wall speakers will work. Smaller areas like bathrooms or hallways, tend to be used for background audio. For rooms like these, a single "stereo" dual voice coil speaker will do the trick. Be sure your speakers are moisture-resistant when installing in bathrooms or laundry rooms.
What Size of In-wall Speakers Should I Choose?
We recommend that customers choose the best speakers their budgets will allow. Remember that larger speakers tend to produce louder, cleaner sound than smaller speakers (especially at lower volumes), so you won’t have to crank the volume up. The size of the room or area is also important. If your room size is more than 15 x 20 ft, go with 6.5" size speaker or (even better), an 8" speaker.
For large rooms and dedicated home theaters, 8" speakers will give you big sound and big bass. Be sure the components are high quality; for example, a 1” aluminum cone tweeter and an 8” injection molded graphite (IMG) woofer will deliver powerful bass response and higher sound pressure level with increased dynamics. Hearing the subtle details of a song or movie goes a long way in enhancing your experience.
High fidelity 6 1/2" speakers are well suited for medium-size rooms and home theater systems. Features like a 1” silk dome tweeter and polypropylene cone woofer provide excellent mid to high range sound. If you love low-frequency effects (bass), add a powered sub-woofer to your theater room. A subwoofer handles frequencies from 120 hertz and lower (the low boom sounds); upgrading to aluminum tweeters and injection molded graphic IMG woofers will also improve clarity and bass response.
Finally, 5 1/4" speakers provide excellent sound quality when space is a factor. The speakers are great for smaller bedrooms, dining rooms, kitchens or patio areas or just about anywhere you want to listen to music at a moderate level. Our 5 1/4s are an economical option that will give you good coverage throughout the house, but we don't recommend them for serious music listening or for main speakers in medium or large home theaters.
Other Important Factors When Choosing:
A speaker’s recommended power specification usually tells you at least the maximum amplifier power the speaker can handle. Sometimes you’ll see minimum power handling as well. A speaker with the recommended power of 20-100 watts is well-suited to a 100-watt RMS receiver.
The range of human hearing is about 20-20,000 Hz. A frequency response specification tells you what portion of that range a speaker can play. A speaker with a frequency response of 50-20,000 Hz handles a wider range and offers deeper bass than a speaker with a frequency response of 65-20,000 Hz.
A speaker's efficiency, or sensitivity, rating indicates how effectively it uses the power sent to it by your amplifier. A speaker with a rating of 87 dB needs a lot more power to play as loudly as a speaker with a rating of 91 dB.
Also, many in-ceiling and some in-wall speakers come with swiveling tweeters, so you can angle your sound toward a preferred listening spot. Some speakers also come with bass and treble tone controls that you can access simply by popping off the speaker grille!
Where Should I Use Single "Stereo" Dual Voice Coil Speaker?
When your house is wired for stereo (left and right channel) sound but you only have room for one speaker, check out dual voice coil models (DVC). Rather than having to listen to one regular (mono) speaker where you’ll hear half of the music signal, dual voice coil single stereo speakers play both the left and right channels of stereo music via one woofer and two angled tweeters. You get the spaciousness of stereo sound, even in a small place. These speakers are recommended for use in compact rooms like bathrooms, garages or throughout long narrow spaces like hallways.
Do I Need Subwoofer?
A sub is really necessary for a home theater setup. Low frequency is the .1 in 5.1 and 7.1 surround sound systems and is a must-have to fully enjoy the full audio spectrum. Many people who use in-wall speakers for home theater simply buy a regularly powered subwoofer to supplement the low frequencies, and because the bass is omnidirectional a sub can be placed discreetly in a room. To find the best match size for your home theater, choose a powered subwoofer that is 2" - 3 " larger than the size of your front speakers.
You don't have to be super handy to install ceiling speakers. With the right tools and a little preparation, you can have a pair of ceiling speakers installed in less than an hour. Let's get started!
Tools You'll Need:
Step 1: First determine where the ceiling speakers will go. (Keep in mind that you'll be running speaker cable from the ceiling speakers, through the walls, and to an amplifier or receiver.)
Step 3: Use a pencil and trace around the cardboard template for your speaker placement. Step back and examine the traces to make sure the speakers will be even and level.
Step 4: Mark the center of the round traces then drill a small hole. Note: Always inspect as much as possible before drilling a hole. Explore your crawlspace or ceiling in an unfinished segment of your basement. Try to detect which way joists run and where empty wall space between studs might be. By inspecting from your crawlspace or attic, you can identify which wall locations are empty of water pipes and electrical wires. However, you can’t still know what’s behind the wall with absolute certainty so be prepared to cut and patch exploratory holes.
Step 5: Bend a metal coat hanger as shown and insert the hanger into the hole. Carefully rotate the hanger to see if there are any obstructions such as pipes. If you note obstructions, patch up the hole and relocate the speaker.
Step 6: If the area is free of obstructions, carefully cut away the outline you traced using a keyhole or drywall saw. Then remove the cutout. You're doing great!
Step 7: Run speaker cable from the ceiling speaker cutout to the outputs of your receiver or amplifier. CL-3 rated in-wall cable is flexible and can be fed through wall and ceiling cavities, although fish tape can be a handy tool especially for long runs. Use at least 16 gauge and allow a few extra feet of cable. You can splice together several lengths of cable if you have a long distance to cover. Leave enough cable slack to strip off about 1/2 inch of the outer jacket on both ends.
Note: Note: If cable is to be run through walls or ceilings, use UL and CL rated cable for your safety and to meet building code requirements.
• Keyhole or Drywall saw
• Phillips screwdriver
• Small level
• Fish tape or a coat hanger
• Wire strippers
• Safety goggles
• 1" Flat bit (if driving through studs ½" or ½" bit for test hole)
Step 1: Decide where you want to place your speakers, for best performance, it is important to carefully select the location for installation. Your in-wall speakers should be installed 5 to 8 feet apart to ensure proper stereo imaging. If possible, mount each speaker the same distance from the corners on a common wall. Keep the speakers at least 2 feet away from the corners of the room to avoid overemphasized bass reproduction. The speakers should be located so that the tweeter height is at the same level, or slightly above the listener’s ear. You must now decide whether the primary listening will be done standing or in a seated position. Remember, for the best stereo imaging, the listening position should be directly in between the speakers with the tweeters at ear level.
For best performance, the center of the In-Wall speakers should be placed around ear level. This would be approximately 40" for a seated listener and 62" for a standing listener.
The distance for the listener to the speakers and the distance between the speakers should be the same. For instance, in the diagram below, A, B, and C should be the same.
In-Wall placement for Home Theater:
Locate the left and right speaker at the same level as the screen. Depending on the height of the television, the center channel can go above or below. Try to keep the center channel as close to the height of the left and right speakers as possible.
Note: The In-Wall speakers are not video shielded. Do not locate the speakers closer than 20" to your television or damage to your picture tube may occur.
Step 2: Center the speaker between the wall studs. Tap the wall for a "hollow" sound or use a stud finder to locate studs.
Step 3: Trace around the cardboard template with a pencil for your speaker placement. Make sure the speakers are even and level.
Step 4: Drill a small hole in the center outline you just traced.
Step 5: Bend a piece of coat hanger wire. Insert the wire into the hole, then slowly rotate to check for any obstructions. If there are any obstructions, patch the hole and relocate the speaker.
Step 6: Carefully cut away the outline you traced using a keyhole or drywall saw. Then remove the cutout.
Step 7: Run the cable from the speaker outputs of your receiver or amplifier to your speakers. Use high-quality cable at least 16 gauge speaker cable. Allow a few extra feet of cable. You may also splice together lengths of cable if you have a long distance to cover. Leave enough cable slack to strip the conductors and work on the connections
Note: If the cable is to be run through walls or ceilings, the cable must be UL and CL rated for your safety and building code compliance.
Step 8: (Optional): Speaker performance can be enhanced by insulating the cavity with fiberglass insulation. When installing speakers in a ceiling, it is best to install a sheet of unfaced fiberglass insulation behind and around the back of the speaker.
Step 9: Pull the cable slack through the hole in the ceiling and strip off the outer jacket. Strip about ½" of insulation off the ends of the wires. Connect the positive wire from the amplifier to the red terminal on the speaker. Connect the negative wire to the black terminal on the speaker.
Note: Make sure the power is turned off on your amplifier or receiver before connecting the speakers.
Step 10: Remove the speaker grille by pushing one of the Flexbar screws towards the front of the speaker. Place the speaker into the cutout in the ceiling.
Step 11: Tighten the screws evenly until the speaker is flat against the ceiling.
Note: If you are using a drill to tighten the screws, be sure to set the drill to its lowest torque setting.
Step 12: Reinsert the grille into the speaker baffle.
Installation Tip #1: Use a drywall saw to cut the hole. A utility knife will make the cleanest cuts in drywall, but a utility knife can be difficult to control by a non-expert. Electric rotary saws make cutting drywall physically easy, but they too can be difficult to control. A simple, inexpensive drywall saw is the best bet for beginners. The speaker's frame will cover up any rough edges.
Installation Tip #2: Check for obstructions before you cut the hole. Drill a small hole in the center of the area you plan to mount the speaker. Cut a piece of coathanger wire and bend it with a 90-degree angle. Insert the wire into the small hole and fish around to make sure that no pipes, studs, or other objects will get in the way. If you do find something, you can easily patch the small hole you drilled. Otherwise, cut the big hole with confidence!
Installation Tip #3: If you will be painting the frame and grille, the best results are achieved by spraying on the paint. Rolling or brushing paint onto the grille often fills in the holes negatively impacting performance. A neat little spray gun can be purchased at your local paint store. Guidelines for thinning the paint are included with the spray gun.
Installation Tip #4: Concerned about installing your own speakers? Practice with your first speaker using a thick piece of cardboard to simulate the wall or ceiling. Clear installation instructions, along with cardboard templates, are provided with all of our in-ceiling and in-wall speakers.
These terms have become almost interchangeable, and there is definitely a gray area between the two. The difference can be in the woofer itself, or how the woofer is being used. A raw speaker or "driver" that we call a subwoofer generally has a limited frequency response range, often not extending above about 400 Hz. A standard "woofer" can have frequency response easily reaching 2500 Hz or higher. This upper limit is a function of electrical and mechanical characteristics; often the large voice coil inductances on high-excursion subwoofers limit their high-frequency capabilities. It is a matter of compromise in the design of the woofer: trying to achieve good high frequency performance generally will cause poor low frequency and power handling abilities, while producing a powerful subwoofer with ultra-low frequency abilities and high power handling will not be able to play well at higher frequencies. However, if a wider-range woofer is used only below 80 Hz or so it could be called a subwoofer due to how it is being implemented.
A passive subwoofer contains only a woofer in an enclosure with no amplification. An active subwoofer contains an onboard amplifier that will accept a low-level input and usually contains electronic crossovers. A passive subwoofer must be powered by an external amplifier and connected via the speaker-level connection. Many times this passive subwoofer contains a built-in passive crossover that sends the bass to the subwoofer driver and passes the higher frequencies to the satellite speakers. This methodology is inherently difficult to implement and will usually result in very poor integration between the woofer and the satellites. Using an active subwoofer system will almost always provide superior results due to the greater control in matching output levels and matching the crossover point between the subwoofer and satellites.
A subwoofer amplifier is a type of amplifier that is usually used in making active powered subwoofers. They are an aluminum plate with inputs, controls, and heat sinks on one side and the amplifier section and other electronics on the other. They're intended to be mounted into a cabinet with the subwoofer driver and have features to optimize them for subwoofer duty. By using a plate amplifier in the subwoofer cabinet, the need for an extra external amplifier can be eliminated, which is very useful in home theater situations. Other benefits of using a plate amplifier are the ability to have independent volume control from the other speakers, a built-in low-pass crossover, and the ability to adjust the phase of the subwoofer.
The lowpass filter on most subwoofer amplifiers can be adjusted between roughly 40 and 160 Hz. As an example of what it is doing, if we set the filter to 80 Hz, it will produce everything lower than 80 Hz. It is called a "lowpass" crossover because it allows all frequencies lower than the crossover point to pass. Most home stereo speakers can work at their best down to 60-100 Hz, so we would like our subwoofer to begin making sound right about where the main speakers stop. To find this setting, get the system up and playing music that has a good bass component. Adjust the subwoofer's volume so you can hear its output clearly. Adjust the crossover knob back and forth through its full range. As you increase the cutoff frequency to the point where it begins to overlap the main speakers, you'll hear the system begin to "boom". (If you have trouble hearing this change while standing very close to the subwoofer, go to the area where you would normally listen and have someone else adjust the knob for you.) Turn the knob back until the boom just falls away. Leave the knob set there. Optimize the volume of the subwoofer so it matches the main speakers, and you're done. Once optimally set, your active subwoofer will require no further adjustment if used exclusively for either music or home theater. You may find that different settings work better for each situation, so take note of these. Because of this, often a remote-controlled plate amplifier is used, or the enthusiast will have a separate system for music and home theatre.
The next best connection possibility is using the speaker, or high-level, connections. This input on the plate amplifier receives the signal that is normally sent to speakers and converts it internally into a smaller signal that it can use. This can be implemented either as a loop-through or as a straight feed. When used with small main speakers, it may be beneficial to route the speaker signal through the high-level inputs, and then connect the high-level outputs to the satellites. This provides a 6 dB/octave highpass crossover to the main speakers which will help protect them from receiving too much bass information. The other possibility is to "parallel" the speaker input connection with the feed going to your main speakers. Because the input impedance is very high on the high-level inputs, this method usually will not strain the main amplifier. This connection method can be used with main speakers that are relatively robust on their own, and if they have a steep low-frequency roll off, decent integration between the subwoofer and the mains is possible. Many people try to use a "tape monitor" loop to feed the subwoofer amplifier, which will work, but the level will not adjust as the main level is adjusted. Since you have to re-set the relative subwoofer level every time you use your speakers, it becomes a very annoying prospect.
HOW TO CHOOSE IN-CEILING SPEAKERS
You want ceiling speakers and you're ready to buy. Congrats! Now you have the task of choosing which speaker is right for your project. To help our customers along, the team at Whole House Audio put together a list of questions that will help you get the most enjoyment from your new home theater or whole house audio system.
Do you want speakers for background music, entertaining, or home theater listening?
Speaker sizes and designs vary depending on the application. If you are simply looking for background music around the house, a speaker with a smaller woofer size and driver will be just fine. If you'll be cranking the audio up or plan on using the speakers in a home theater or media room, invest in speakers that can handle the higher volumes. This usually means a larger woofer (6.5 or 8 inches), and higher quality drivers, for example, Kevlar or polypropylene woofers. If you crave the kind of audio that will ruffle neighbors six blocks away, we have speakers for that too. Just make sure your amplifier or receiver has enough power for the system. Trying to drive 8" Kevlar speakers with a 25-watt per channel amp is like putting a 4-cylinder engine in a Lamborghini; it'll move but you miss all the fun.
What type of environment will these speakers be installed?
You know how you want to use your new speakers, now consider the type of room or rooms you'll where they will be installed. Some rooms are small or oddly shaped which can make speaker placement difficult. Such areas could benefit from our dual voice coil speakers (one speaker provides stereo sound) to get more balanced sound. If the television is positioned in a corner, consider an angled (LCR) speakers that allow you to direct sound. If you're building a media room that opens up to the kitchen, your music and movies will be competing against chatty people and clanging dishwashers. If there is a lot of background noise or the space is fairly large, go for the largest, highest quality speakers you can afford.
Sizing Things Up
Larger rooms (over 20 x 15 ft) with high ceilings and rooms that open up to other areas of the house require larger, more efficient speakers and more amplifier power to output sound at higher volume levels. Installing ceiling speakers with a 4-inch cone in a large living room will sound distorted when you turn up the volume, and you will turn up the volume because that poor little speaker isn't designed to work with that much air.
What type of A/V system will be powering your speakers?
Whether you are using an existing system or purchasing a new one with the latest surround sound technologies, it is important to know the specifications of your system before selecting speakers. Your amplifier or receiver is what powers the system and it will give you a good idea of any limitations in terms of size and sound. Most receiver and amp manuals can be found online. Things to look for include, how many speakers can your system power, what is the impedance (ohms), and how many watts per channel. Make sure your system can handle the impedance of the speakers and aim for similar wattage. If your system cannot connect the desired number of speakers, consider purchasing a speaker selector and/or another amplifier.
Are your speakers intended for use in a multi-channel home theater system?
If you plan on using your speakers as part of a home theater system or other multi-channel audio systems, consider the quality of the speakers you purchase and the similarity of sound provided by them. All the speakers in a multi-channel system should exhibit similar quality. The center channel, in particular, must be of equal quality to the front speakers as it will be called upon to produce a large amount of the audio in a movie soundtrack. Also, it is important that the center speaker has a similar sound to the front stereo speakers so that they create a cohesive sound field. The speakers in a multi-channel audio system do not necessarily have to come from the same manufacturer, but often speakers from the same manufacturer feature the most similar sound and compatibility.
Do you have or do you plan to use a digital 5.1 surround sound format such as Dolby Digital or DTS?
If you will be using one of these digital surround sound formats you may be interested in a subwoofer. The digital 5.1 formats feature a special low-frequency effects channel intended specifically to be produced by a subwoofer, although it can be bypassed if you are using main stereo speakers with sufficient bass response. The 5.1 digital systems also feature full-range, stereo surround channels necessitating good quality surround speakers with a similar sound, power and efficiency to the front three speakers (left, center, right).
Will you power your speakers with a receiver?
Receivers often do not operate well into low impedance loads. If you will use a receiver with your speakers, look for speakers with a nominal impedance of 8 ohms or higher. You may look at speakers with a nominal impedance of 6 ohms, but avoid speakers in the 4-ohm range. If you are interested in speakers with a 4-ohm nominal impedance, you may want to consider investing in a separate amplifier. Otherwise, check your receiver (or the receiver you intend to purchase) to make sure it can operate into low impedances.
What is your price range for the speakers?
Once you know your sound needs/expectations, set a price range to work with based on all the factors mentioned above. As you look for speakers, either individually or as a system, be aware that you may need to spend slightly more for improved quality. Remember, that building a good system on a limited budget may take time. If you are operating on a limited budget, you may be better off purchasing higher quality speakers first and investing in a new amplifier at a later date. You can always build your system up, so start with a good foundation that will meet your long-term needs.
Will you purchase an entire audio system including speakers, amplifiers, preamplifiers, source components, etc.? If so, what is your price range for the entire system?
Your expenditures on speakers should make up around 40 percent to 50 percent of your total expenditures on audio if you plan on putting together a multi-channel home theater system. Each of the speakers should be of similar quality, though the front left and right stereo pair often costs more than the other speakers and may take up around 20 percent of your total home theater audio budget. If you can afford a subwoofer, it is a worthy addition to a home theater system. However, most good subwoofers capable of truly providing deep bass cost $500 and up. If your budget does not allow you to spend the $500 or more for a good subwoofer, additional funds below the mark for a good sub are better spent on a higher quality left and right stereo speakers with more powerful bass response themselves.
In-wall speakers can be mounted on a variety of flat wall surfaces and provide excellent sound for home theater applications, as well as whole house audio. Typically rectangular in shape (although OSD does offer square models), in-wall speakers take up far less space than traditional box speakers and wires are neatly concealed behind the wall. Wall speakers can even be painted to match a room décor—a favorite feature among interior decorators. Most in-wall speakers use the wall cavity as their enclosure or cabinet; however, boxes can be purchased for new home construction projects that create a solid, resonant-free enclosure. In-wall speakers come with special screws (called dog ears) that flip out and secure to the drywall (or other wall surfaces), a nearby stud, or a special frame attached to the studs. Custom installation frames (brackets) can also be purchased for a more secure fit or for lighter wall materials that require more support. In wall, speakers are often categorized by the size of the woofer, not the size of the speaker itself, so a 6½” in-wall speaker has a 6½ woofer.
In-ceiling speakers are very similar to in-wall speakers in form and function except that they are round in shape and slightly smaller in size. In-ceiling speakers are usually a little lighter and less noticeable than in-wall speakers, and like in-wall speakers, come with dog ears and can be mounted in either a ceiling or a wall. In-ceiling speakers can also be placed in custom installation frames (brackets) or boxes for new home construction projects. Just like in-walls, in-ceiling speakers are often categorized by the size of the woofer, not the size of the speaker itself. In-ceiling speakers are more commonly used for whole-house audio; however, customers also use ceiling speakers for 5.1 and 7.1 home theater systems and media room as well.
The Advantage of LCR (Left-Center-Right) Speakers
Many of our customers choose LCR right in-wall speakers for their home theaters. LCR in-walls are very effective when room layout isn’t optimized for a 5.1 surround sound system. Say, for example, your video screen is in the corner of your room. This position would make it difficult for ordinary speakers to track across the soundstage because the left, center and right speakers should be on the same plane as the picture. With the video display in a corner, it takes away the flat surface you need when trying to couple audio with video. LCR speakers allow you to get imaging and staging that would be lost with regular, down-firing ceiling speakers because their woofers are set at a 15° angle. The critical high and midrange frequencies are pointed toward the listener, not the floor. So, when your video tracks left to right, the soundtracks right along with the video. You can even use them for rear and side surrounds in 5.1 or 7.1 systems.
Dual Voice Coil Speakers
Dual Voice Coil speakers are another clever option created by audio engineers that allow both the left and right channel to be played from a single speaker by placing two angled tweeters in one speaker. Dual voice Coil speakers are ideal for small or oddly shaped spaces where the balanced left and right sound would be difficult to achieve with two speakers. Dual Voice Coil speakers offer excellent sound quality and great flexibility because you don't need to worry about placing two speakers for balanced sound. Dual Voice Coil speakers use regular speaker wire except, instead of connecting one wire to the left and one to the right, you connect both wires to their respective connectors in the speaker.
Center Channel Speakers
The center channel speaker supplies the dialog and many of the surround effects in a surround sound system. Center channel speakers use only tweeters and mid-range to mid-bass drivers to create voices and sound effects in a home theater setting. Center channels leave the low-frequency information to subwoofers or left and right speakers. Center channel speakers are also, in most cases, magnetically shielded so they do not interfere with the video display.
70V Ceiling Speakers
Custom installers will often use 70V speakers for commercial background music applications. These speakers are useful when many speakers are being connected in series, for example in a restaurant or office for background music or short announcement applications. The 70V commercial speaker allows the installer to connect a few speakers together in series before running the line back to the amplifier. Regular speakers run each speaker directly back to the amplifier. 70V speakers are designed for commercial applications where powerful amplifiers are used to supply sound in large spaces. High-quality surround sound is not the purpose of 70V speakers and they are not recommended for home use.
Back Boxes and New Construction Brackets
Pre-Construction Brackets are used for new home construction or remodeling before sheetrock is hung. Brackets allow you to precisely position where speakers will be installed. The aluminum bracket wings can be stapled, nailed or screwed to studs or joists. Back boxes are designed specifically to enhance the speaker's performance; they utilize the ideal air volume for the speaker and act as a sound chamber, directing the critical sound to the sweet spot. Back boxes can also reduce the sound going to other rooms/floors up to 10dB and provides one-hour fire break protection.
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